My family, including me and my husband, my parents, my two brothers and their wives, and my cute baby niece and nephew, recently spent a week in a beach house on the Isle of Palms, South Carolina, which is very near Charleston. Charleston is one of my very favorite cities; in fact, I love it so much that I have been hassling John to look for finance jobs so we can move down there, but so far nothing has come of that particular fantasy.
We were in the area on vacation a few years ago (see
my 2011 post here) and enjoyed some great food, and this time was even better. I can't wait to go back again.
Here are some notes on restaurants and bars we visited:
The Boathouse at Breach Inlet, Isle of Palms, SC. This place is a little pricey for dinner, but we loved having Dark & Stormies on the upstairs deck during sunset, and their brunch/lunch is pretty good. It was within walking distance of our rental house, and was convenient for a meal out. I had a decent fried oyster po'boy, and for dinner one night I tried the fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese and the shrimp and grits, both of which were fine.
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| Dark & Stormies on the patio at The Boathouse at Breach Inlet. |
Acme Lowcountry Kitchen, Isle of Palms, SC. We popped in here for lunch on Memorial Day only because they had space in their parking lot. Everywhere else was packed! But, I liked the food, and our server was really friendly. She even let me taste a weird local beer I had ordered, because she suspected I might not like it (she was right). I can wholeheartedly recommend the fried jalepenos and pickles - those are awesome.
The Griffon Pub, Charleston, SC. We just stopped in this pub for a beer and a snack before a late dinner at Husk, and it was fine. We tried a few tasty local beers and, in accordance with tradition, left a dollar bill stapled to the wall. Decent wings.
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| Another customary vacation picture of John holding a beer. I have a huge collection of photos JUST like this (see above). |
The Bar at HUSK, Charleston, SC. I LOVE this bar. It is a great stop even if you don't have reservations to dine next door. I had an absinthe drink called "The Copperhead," and it was perfectly lemony and refreshing. No, I didn't hallucinate, at least not that I know of.
HUSK, Charleston, SC. This restaurant is fantastic. They focus on local, seasonal ingredients, and everything was lovely. We had a party of six, and we had a great time. We ordered pretty much everything, but I particularly liked the "Kentuckyaki Pig Ear Lettuce Wraps with Pickled Red Cabbage" and the "Southern Fried Chicken Skins with Toasted Honey and HUSK Hot Sauce." The roasted oysters, pimento cheese, and cornbread were also stand-outs. My fish entree was just OK, though.
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| John's enormous steak at Husk. |
Poe's Tavern, Sullivan's Island, SC. I wish I had some pictures of this place, because it is great, exactly my kind of place. John, K. and I went out to satisfy John's craving for a burger lunch one day, and we found this place just over the bridge on Sullivan's Island. Evidently Edgar Allen Poe spent some time on Sullivan's Island back in his time, so there are some Poe-themed places around. We sat outside on a gorgeous afternoon, and the burgers here are the real deal.
High Cotton, Charleston, SC. Before this vacation, my dad charged me with making dinner plans for ten of us, without the kids. In addition to my family, we had my childhood friend and her husband with us, who live in the area. Strangely, most of the places I called in Charleston weren't able to accommodate a party larger than eight - I guess it is due to the small spaces in charming old buildings. But, thankfully, High Cotton was able to take us! We had a fantastic time here, and the service and food were both great. We started with some charcuterie platters (excellent) and fried oystsers, and then I ordered a salad and a soup from the specials menu for dinner, because I wasn't starving and planned to hit the charcuterie platter pretty hard. I really liked this place and would definitely recommend it for large groups.
Glazed Gourmet Doughnut, Charleston, SC. Weeks ago, I read an article on Eater about the "
23 Hottest Doughnut Shops in America Right Now," and sent a tweet to my sister-in-law telling her we should try this doughnut place, if only for research purposes to compare it against Gourdough's in Austin (still my favorite). Then, we never really planned it because we honestly weren't in Charleston all that much, and I had half-way forgotten about it. But! One day John, K., L., and I took an afternoon to go into Charleston mainly to check out some bars and eat some oysters, and we happened upon the doughnut shop on King Street! Lucky. It was in the afternoon, so they were about to close and the selection was limited, but we were able to try the bacon/maple and the plain glazed, both really good. I love a doughnut.
Closed for Business, Charleston, SC. After we ate the doughnuts but before The Ordinary opened at 3PM, we walked around King Street and checked out a few bars. This place has quirky signs and taxidermied animals around, together with local brews, so obviously we loved it. We also tried their pimento cheese snack, which was one of the best of the week (we ate a LOT of pimento cheese).
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| At Closed for Business. |
Mercury Bar, Charleston, SC. This place seemed like the kind of place that would get clubby and packed on a weekend night, but during the afternoon on a weekday, it was totally empty. We sat on the sunny back patio, had a beer, and played one round of Bags (or Cornhole). Fun! John is a ringer. I'm terrible.
The Ordinary, Charleston, SC. And now we come to the entire reason I decided to write this blog post - an absolute RAVE about The Ordinary oyster bar. K. wanted oysters all week, so we planned this entire day out just to fulfill that fantasy, and oh, was it incredible!! We ordered a giant shellfish tower, some extra oysters, and some extra peekytoe crab salad. Delicious. Plus, the space is gorgeous and our server was lovely. Next time I am in Charleston, I will definitely be going back here.
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| L. and K. meet the tower of shellfish at The Ordinary. |
Home Team BBQ, Sullivan's Island, SC. Did you think the Charleston-area brew and food tour adventure day was over? Silly. On the way back to Isle of Palms from The Ordinary, L. insisted that we make a final stop at this barbecue joint on Sullivan's Island; that guy LOVES his barbecue. Home Team serves great Carolina-style pulled pork, but the ribs and brisket were just OK. Still good, because all barbecue is generally pretty good, but the pulled pork was the star. I also really enjoyed the BBQ chips with queso (with sausage added in). Yum.
R.B.'s Seafood, Mt. Pleasant, SC. On Friday after everyone else had begun their travels home, my parents, John and I went out for a little sightseeing. We took a boat tour to Ft. Sumter, looked around in old Mt. Pleasant for a while, and then had to find a place for dinner without a plan. This place is on Shem Creek, and we only went here because the place next door had a long wait and we had no idea where else to go. It was fine, not great. I think I am still a little mad at it (and our server) for seating the four of us at an awkward rocky table, and then asking us to stick a menu under the table leg (!?) when the wobbling wouldn't stop. I should have been more insistent that they move us to a better table, because that was annoying. Good crab dip, though.
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| Charleston's famous Arthur Ravenel, Jr. Bridge. |
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| Fort Sumter |
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| Our guide at Fort Sumter was VERY CLEAR that we were not allowed to touch anything, including the cannons. Here I am following the rules. It was hard. |
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| John loves war stuff. |
Hominy Grill, Charleston, SC. If there's one thing I've learned about food and travel in this life, it is that Anthony Bourdain won't steer you wrong. A bunch of reviews on TripAdvisor said Hominy Grill was overhyped, but the Yelpers recommended it, so we decided to check it out. This was the last day of our vacation, and my parents took off for their long drive back home to Illinois, and we had almost all day to linger in Charleston before our evening flight. We arrived at Hominy Grill at prime brunch time, like 11AM, and saw a large crowd waiting. We put our name in, facing a half-hour wait (not bad), but the hostess called us immediately, before we could even get a drink! Hooray! I had an egg and cornbread dish from the specials menu, and John had the requisite "Big Nasty," which is a biscuit sandwich with fried chicken and gravy. We shared sides of grits and sausage. My food was good, and the grits were GREAT. John's sandwich was also worth the calories. The sausage wasn't so great, but whatever. Excellent coffee, and we shared a perfect slice of pecan pie at the end.
Blind Tiger Pub, Charleston, SC. After Hominy Grill, John and I checked out the
Calhoun Mansion and the
Nathanial Russell historic house museums, walked around south of Broad contemplating buying one of the huge mansions and restoring it (maybe someday!), and then stopped in at the Blind Tiger for a drink and a snack before going to the airport. I had a pimento grilled cheese sandwich that was pretty good, but the real star of this plate was the potato salad. I don't know what they put in that stuff, but it was fabulous.
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| Pimento grilled cheese sandwich at Blind Tiger Pub. |
And so, after all that, John and I headed home to New York. I was sad to see the week end and for my family to leave to go back to the scattered places we all call home; but we had a great time while it lasted!